Thursday, July 17, 2008

Hustlers, Pt. 2

Unfortunately, the Nigerian entrepreneurial spirit is often used for wrongdoing.  Nigerians are known the world over for their creative business scams, frequently done over the Internet.  An article published Tuesday on BBC.com described a recent scam:  Nigerian conmen posed as scouts for European football clubs, contacted young African football players via email, asked them for a $500 fee to try out for their clubs, and then ran with their money.

Nigerians are keenly aware of how much money can be stolen through internet fraud, and many can tell you about friends who got rich by starting scamming at a young age.  A popular Nigerian hip hop song memorializes and satirizes the scam artists, known as “Yahoo boys” or “Yahozees” (“Yahoo” is a general term for the internet).  You can check out the "Yahozee" video here.

The song is sung in a mixture of Yoruba and Pidgin English.  A Nigerian acquaintance explained some of the lyrics this way:


Ti n ba hammer, first tin na Hummer

If I hit it big (i.e. hammer it), the first thing I’ll buy is a Hummer

One million dollars, elo lo ma je ti n ba se ni naira?

I’ll get one million dollars and exchange it into tons of naira (Nigerian currency)

 

Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, boys dey hustle eh!

Internet scam artists work hard Monday through Thursday

Friday, Saturday, Sunday!  Fbogbo aiye!

On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday they party

Champaigne, Henessy oh eh! For evribody eh!

With enough money to buy champagne and Henessy for everyone

Accidents Happen

Last night was a night to forget!  There were so many mishaps on our drive home that I think we filled our quota for bad-things-that-happen-on-the-road for the rest of the summer.

Yesterday we left the office a little late, around 5:30, and drove to a nearby market so that Chris and Leehe could do some grocery shopping.  When we started to head home, our new driver Charles realized that we didn’t have enough gas for the ride.

Charles stopped at a couple of gas stations but none of them gave him gas—the first station couldn’t print a receipt (the driver needed one to give to the office), and the second station said they didn’t have any gas.  

We turned onto the highway to head to yet another gas station.  Just as we entered the highway, a local bus started to exit the highway.  Our car and the bus hit each other and then separated as soon as the hit happened.  The damage wasn’t bad—our mirror was knocked off and there is a paint-stained dent at the front of our car—and, more importantly, none of us were hurt.  An elderly man hanging from the side of the bus could have been badly injured—he was sandwiched between the bus and the car when we hit—but all he got was a bloody nose.

Both the bus and the car pulled to the side of the highway to sort things out.  Because the accident was not the explicit fault of either driver, no one lost their temper.  However, the fact was that an elderly man was injured and needed medical attention.

The crowd outside assumed that we White people would have money and want to get the episode taken care of quickly, so they asked us to simply give the man N1500 (about $13) and continue on our way.  We decided not to give him cash but to take him to a hospital instead, and have the elderly man and the medical staff negotiate the price of his care.

As we headed to the hospital, however, the man insisted that he would rather have the N1500, that the hospital would charge him too much money, and that we should just drop him off at the side of the road.  We concluded that the hospital would be too much trouble, so we finally gave the man N1500 and dropped him off, as he asked.

Our car was dented, the mirror was knocked off, and we still had no gas.  So we returned to the office to switch our damaged car for one that had enough gas to get us home.  When we set out, it was getting late and the traffic had picked up considerably.  By the time we reached Chris and Leehe’s house, we had spent nearly two hours in traffic that moved at a snail’s pace (the drive to their house usually takes less than an hour).

It was finally time for the driver to take me home.  As we turned onto the road outside Chris and Leehe’s house, the car simply stalled.  A dead battery was the likely culprit.  I called Chris and Leehe and told them to meet me on the road so I could walk back to their house.

While I was waiting for them, a woman pulled onto the side of the road to ask if we needed help.  It turned out that she lived only a short distance away from where I live, so she drove me home.  Or almost home—she didn’t want to take her nice, new car through the pond-sized puddles on the road outside my house (a decision I completely understand), so I took my bags and trudged around the water, finally getting home at about 9:45, over four hours after leaving the office.

 While I was enjoying my dinner at home, Chris and Leehe and Charles pushed the dead car back to Chris and Leehe’s house, and Charles spent the night with them.  He was really grateful for their hospitality and for the chance to chill out after the ride.

This morning, another driver from FATE Foundation came to check out the car.  He realized that the battery was not dead after all, and that it was a simple security switch that Charles needed to press to make the car work again.  He must have been frazzled from the accident earlier that night and forgotten how to work the switch.

Chris and Leehe and I have yet another story to tell once we return to New York...

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Obamania?

I have an "Obama '08" pin on my handbag here in Nigeria and it attracts quite a lot of attention.  Comments people make about the pin--and about the candidate and the race--aren't what you might expect from Nigerians.  That is, you might expect blanket support for a presidential candidate who is the son of a Kenyan man but public opinion, as far as I've gathered, is more nuanced than that.

Here are some of the Obama comments I've heard from Nigerians:
  • I didn't decide to support him until the superdelegates started to side with him.
  • I'm supporting him but I hope he has enough experience to lead your country.
  • I am a Hillary supporter!  But now that there's only one choice, I'll support Obama.
  • I'll support anyone who's not a Republican.
  • I want your pin so I can be Obama's champion in Nigeria!  He has so much intelligence and energy.
  • I love the man!
To be honest, while comments are mixed, I have yet to find a Nigerian who is not supporting Obama.  On another note, I just saw this week's New Yorker cover illustration.  I'll be careful to listen for Nigerians' reaction to the magazine's very tasteless picture.

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Enugu Weekend Pt. 2

Again, sorry these pictures are out of order (I'm having trouble using this website), but here you have:















At the end of the trip, Chris, Dahlia, and Leehe heading to the plane to Lagos















SIPA in Enugu:  Chris, me, Chinonso, Dahlia, and Leehe















After Sunday's church service, Chinonso's brother Chinemelu (wearing the green robe) makes his way through the crowd
















Back at Chinonso's family's house, a group of his relatives dances in celebration















Other relatives watch the festivities from inside the house















The entrance to Chinonso's family's residence, which the entire extended family uses for big celebrations.  A poster celebrating Chinemelu's ordainment, written in English and Igbo, hangs outside the house.



















On the road outside Chinonso's family's house, the day after the celebration

Enugu Weekend Pt. 1

This past Saturday the SIPA students in Lagos--Leehe, Chris, Dahlia and I--took a trip to Enugu, one of the major cities in Eastern Nigeria.  The family of our friend Chinonso (a recent SIPA graduate) was celebrating the ordainment of Nonso's brother Chinemelu.  The weekend was wonderful, so thanks again to Nonso's family for their incredible hospitality.  Here are a few pictures from Enugu (sorry they're out of order).  















The night of our arrival in Enugu--after a ten-hour bus ride--Chinonso and his brother Ike joke around.  Ike, at left, is a graduate of Yale Law School and he practices in New York.  All weekend long, family members wore coordinating outfits, hence their matching shirts. 















The DJ's tent outside Nonso's family's house















Nonso's family on the day of Rev. Chinemelu's first church service















The service was attended by at least a thousand people from the family's village.  Wherever we went, we were surrounded by kids!  We were probably the first white people they had ever seen.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Philanthropy








A 2005 cover article of The Economist made the argument that cell phones are more effective than computers in stimulating the economy in developing countries.  Whereas computers are expensive, require a lot of upkeep, and can be used only by people with a certain level of education, cell phones are relatively cheap and accessible to everyone.

Yesterday I attended a press release for a book published by FATE Foundation in conjunction with MTN Foundation.  (MTN is one of the major cell phone networks in Nigeria and the MTN Foundation is in charge of MTN’s CSR work.)  Before attending the event I expected the book to be a boring business manual, but it turned out to be something far more interesting.

FATE Foundation and MTN Foundation have seized the idea that cell phones can promote capital accumulation.  The book they produced is a how-to manual for low-income Nigerians to create their own “call centers.”  Call centers, found all over Nigeria, are places where someone who owns a cell phone charges a fee to someone who wants to make or receive a call on the phone.  That way, people who can’t afford phones can talk for cheap, people who can afford phones can make money, and communication between people is made a lot easier.  The book is free to the public.

I like the above picture for a few reasons:  It shows FATE Foundation’s managing director, at left, talking business with two of the foundation’s board members; it shows two posters that highlight two of MTN Foundation’s goals:  providing shelter and helping women; and at left, it shows what looks like a model of a call center but is actually a cake!  I didn’t believe it was a cake until I ate some of it myself.

The Nigerian press were all over yesterday's event.  I'm checking newspapers for photos and if I can, i'll upload some of them later.



Saturday















Last Saturday night Chris Thurlow and I were invited to a cocktail party at the Bacchus Club in Lagos.  The event turned out to be a networking opportunity for Nigerian young professionals, not the kick-back party we expected it to be, but I'm glad I went anyway.  

Our coworker Michael (pictured third from left) proposed to his girlfriend (standing next to him) that night.  In front of everyone at the party, he got down on one knee and asked her to marry him... and she said yes.  Congrats to both of them!